'The "Studington Military" Kit', 1915

Other ranks had uniforms provided, but officers had to purchase their own uniforms from private tailors, such as Studd & Millington who had outlets in London and the south-east.

Officers were expected to wear khaki open-collar jackets, shirt and tie, tan jodhpur-style cord breeches, leather trench boots, and leather gloves. They would also wear a Sam Browne shoulder and waist belt with compass and binoculars cases, a map and notebook case, and a pistol holster. Enterprising suppliers designed all manner of unnecessary add-ons to increase cost.

The colour and quality of officer's uniforms varied greatly according to social class, wealth and geography - many different providers meant a large degree of variation. Jacket colours strayed from olive green to brown, and shirts were accepted in khaki, olive, tan, and brown, but senior officers complained about junior officers wearing mustard or yellow shirts.

Initially officer's ranks were indicated by braid, crowns and pips on pointed cuff flaps, as shown here, but this was found to attract enemy sniper-fire. In 1915, some officer's began wearing rank insignia on their shoulder epaulettes instead. Initially frowned upon, it was officially adopted in 1917.

Selling uniforms and provisions to sometimes quite wealthy officers was very tempting to commercial providers. Catalogues and posters were used to attract sales, with some products (such as Fortnum & Mason's luxurious Christmas hamper) being available for delivery direct to the Western Front.